If you love exotic landscapes, adventure and thrills, this is the route for you!
The Sian Ka’an Biosphere is one of the three largest protected natural areas in Mexico, along with Calakmul and El Vizcaino. It extends over 650 thousand hectares and along the 120kms separating the municipalities of Tulum and Felipe Carillo Puerto, in the state of Quintana Roo. This exceptional natural park shelters a plurality of ecosystems: white sand beaches, coral reefs, cenotes, savannahs, mangroves, wetlands, tropical forests.
Fauna and flora abound. More than 300 species of birds and over 100 species of plants thrive here. Lucky visitors can see manatees, dolphins, turtles, crocodiles, jaguars, pumas, ocelots, tapirs, deer, howler and spider monkeys, Morpho butterflies, frogs and lizards of all kinds.
Punta Allen’s white sand beach
Sian Ka’an means “Origin of Heaven” in Maya and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. The biosphere is strictly protected. A few luxury villas dot the coastal area, but no new construction is now allowed and the jungle area is under heavy surveillance against poachers of all kinds.
From Tulum, it is possible to reach the town of Felipe Carillo Puerto by crossing the Sian Ka’an biosphere. An ideal playground for the intrepid bicycle traveller!
Taking route 15, you first have to cross the crazy hotel zone of Tulum and find your way between the taxis, trucks and the stream of tourists that pours continuously on this small and congested road. A piece of advice: don’t do like us, leave early!
A Mayan arch marks the entrance to the reserve where you can register (40 pesos per person). From this point on, the asphalt is replaced by a chaotic rocky road. Beware of potholes!
But what a beauty! The path winds along the narrow peninsula for 53 kilometres. The sea on the left hand, the lagoon on the right hand; this thin strip of land reveals all its elegance as we go along. Fifteen kilometres after the entrance, a bridge crosses the mangrove, from which a few lazy crocodiles can be seen.
Further south, we suddenly come across heavenly white sand beaches. A real postcard setting… or almost. Unfortunately, the shoreline is littered with plastic. For miles and miles, this wonderful scenery is spoiled by infamous pollution, vomited wave after wave by the ocean. Bottles (so many!!!), cans, balloons, spoons, shoes, bags, pipes, straws…
This plastic is you, it’s me. It is our fault. An ocean of plastic that we have created and that is here, scattered, naked, revealed before our disgusted eyes. The fight against pollution through the small symbolic gesture of refusing a disposable coffee cup is no longer enough. It is there, the reality; it is no longer hidden, the horror of our Styrofoam world. And beyond our disgusted gaze, a little thought for our dear turtles, emblems of our journey, who are swimming, entangled, poking their eyes out, choking, dying from our joyfully consumed filth.
Plastic ocean
The road now continues under a tunnel of palm trees, then widens a little as we get closer to the village, still zigzagging between the potholes. Only a few cars venture to this point of the peninsula, a welcome calm after the crazy cacophony of Tulum.
We arrive at Punta Allen with the sun setting. The wind gets stronger and stronger and the sky is covered with threatening clouds. Rejected by the Serenidad Shardon camp (the owner, American or Canadian, probably didn’t think we were classy enough for her Glamping), two policemen offer us to camp in the village park. We are about to accept but first decide to have a look at the other camp, Selva y Cielo, located at the entrance of Punta Allen. The lure of a hot shower, a nice spot on the beach and a day of rest with our feet in the water and our heads under the palm trees wins out and we settle in without regret in this little corner of paradise.
Punta Allen is a pleasant fishing village located at the extreme tip of the peninsula, wedged between the lagoon and the turquoise ocean, mangrove and tropical forest. The pace here is slow, much slower than the frenetic hustle and bustle of Tulum and far from its artificial appeal. While the prices of the restaurants and minimarkets still reflect the tourist influence, the general atmosphere is much more authentic.
One of the great traditions of the village is lobster fishing. When the weather allows it, the fishermen go out to raise their traps and return to the dock at around 4pm* from where it is possible to buy the fresh shellfish directly. Count 300 pesos/kg for the whole animal and 600 pesos/kg for the tail only. Back at the Cielo y Selva camp, you can ask the kitchens to prepare it with garlic or butter… a treat for seafood lovers!
If, like us, you want to continue the Sian Ka’an adventure from Punta Allen, go to the pontoon on the lagoon side. From there, it is possible to find a fisherman who will take you across to El Playon. We negotiate our place on the boat of one of them for 300 pesos and agree to meet at 8am the next day.
Punta Allen seaside jetty
It’s still dark when we pack up our tents and mattresses, and it’s with sleepy eyes that we cycle to the small family restaurant La Veracruzana where we agreed the day before with the owner to meet at 7am for breakfast. His wife is still sleeping when we knock gently on the door. We devour our eggs and order four empanadas to take away, then make our way to the dock where Jose is waiting for us to cross.
The bikes are loaded as they are onto the small boat. The sunrise rays gently flood the calm lagoon, and in 10 minutes we are already on the other side. Jose helps us disembark and takes the time to point out a guitar ray swimming peacefully.
Entrance of the Biosphere from El Playon
68 kilometres of wilderness separate us from Felipe Carillo Puerto. The first pedal turns are on a rocky path stretching along the lagoon in the middle of the mangrove. The project to preserve and restore the natural area is clearly visible here.
The birds are having a field day. Cormorants, frigate birds, kingfishers, herons, ibises, hummingbirds… a paradise for birdwatchers.
(complete list of birds in the reserve here http://www.pericosmexico.org/aviturismopdf/GuiaSianKaan(low-res).pdf)
The mangrove gives way to marshes and then to savannah and tropical forest. Very quickly, the road becomes narrower, the vegetation denser. The road winds its way through a tunnel of branches and lianas. The wet ground, which never sees the sun’s rays, is permanently covered with a thin greenish mossy layer… Pedaling on this ultra-slippery ground, sometimes sandy, sometimes muddy, sometimes stony, avoiding the countless potholes, is a real physical challenge. Perfect for learning a new skill on the bike: gliding.
Ten times, twenty times, our wheels slip and we lose control. I fall so often that I lose count. Each time, I have to lift the 40 kilos of my bardas to try to get it back on its feet without slipping again. I no longer count the bruises and scratches on my bare legs. Juan, who is more skillful, only kisses the muddy ground once, landing on his hindquarters in an elegant, well-received slide.
Sometimes the trail gives us a break, a time to breathe, regain our strength, scan the jungle for a glimpse of the varied wildlife.
We move at a snail’s pace, no more than 5 or 6 km per hour.
It is also dreadful to stop because this magical and untamed place is also the sacred kingdom of mosquitoes ! Swarming hordes roar in our ears, assaulting us, surrounding us, harassing us and taking advantage of the slightest weakness in our defences to bite every square centimeter of unprotected skin.
Advancing in these conditions is difficult, tiring. But all of a sudden, a noise in the foliage makes us put our foot down (be careful with sudden stops, it’s better to drive slowly and to be able to put your foot down than to try to brake in these conditions or else it’s a guaranteed skid): above our heads, monkeys swing from branch to branch before disappearing, swallowed by the forest. Further on, a tiny frog, no bigger than a grain of corn, jumps in front of our wheels. Butterflies worthy of Alice in Wonderland flutter around our convoy, as if to show us the way. A huge, multi-coloured turkey struts down the middle of the road while a doe poses on a tree branch.
Crested Guan (Penelope purpurascens)
There is an intense calm in this place. But nothing is silent! The forest reveals its complexity and gives us a glimpse of the abundant life it conceals. The rustling of branches, the humming of insects, the singing of birds, the croaking of frogs, the crunching of lizards on the dead leaves… the jungle is teeming with invisible and noisy activity.
Siproeta
After 22 kilometres, the road comes to an intersection that offers a welcome exit for cyclists who have been burnt out by the technical nature of the route. By turning right, it is possible to join the main road and thus quickly reach Felipe Carillo Puerto.
However, we choose the left lane and go deeper into the forest. The vegetation becomes more and more dense, but some gaps let us see a strange savannah landscape or swamps with thick black water, before falling back into the shade of the trees. A 700m stretch of flooded ground forces us to get our feet wet and move forward cautiously, praying not to slip on the frighteningly slippery ground.
It’s 3:30 pm when we reach Caseta Santa Teresa, 38 km from the starting point. We decide to take a break and head for the clearing, surprising the only human being for miles around: Anselmo, the park warden. He welcomes us with pleasure, delighted to have some company, as he spends 8 days every fortnight alone, totally isolated, in this former research centre lost in the middle of the jungle.
We chat a bit, eat our empanadas and ask about the road to the village. It’s already 4pm and we still have 29 kilometres to go. At this rate and in these conditions, we will never get there before nightfall. It seems very unwise to pedal this ice rink without lights… not to mention the possible wild animals. Besides, I’m pretty exhausted.
Anselmo allows us to set up camp in the middle of the barracks, punctuating his invitation with an enigmatic “At your own risk”… The occasion to remember that we are in the middle of a wild forest. At night, this place is the kingdom of snakes and jaguars. It is their domain. Their territory. We are only humble guests. We set up our tent near one of the cabins and curl up tired in our shelter, while bats and dragonflies finally enjoy the cool evening air.
Camping spot at the Caseta Santa Teresa
It is almost midnight when I suddenly open my eyes. A noise has probably woken me up. The sky is studded with stars and the Milky Way is shining brightly. All around, as if in echoes, a myriad of fireflies sparkle. I try to keep my eyes open to spot the famous jaguars, but fatigue is the strongest and I end up going back to sleep.
The next day, it is still dark when we wake up at 6am. However, there is no question of going back on the road without light. We wait a bit, take our time to pack our stuff. It’s 8 o’clock when we finally take our first turns of the day, not without first thanking Anselmo warmly.
The last 29 kilometres are just as tough as the day before. The path is just as soapy and tricky. I fall six more times.
After the ranch, 15 kilometres from La Caseta, the road widens a bit and seems easier. Be careful, however, not to let your attention wander, as there are still many treacherous passages under the tyres.
Finally, the first houses mark the beginning of the village of Felipe Carillo Puerto and the end of this crazy experience: the crossing of the Sian Ka’an biosphere by bike.
To sum up, if you too are wondering whether or not to cross this incredible protected natural area, we answer: Yes, it is possible! Do it!
BUT :
– with a bike suitable for this kind of slippery surface (forget the road bike or the tandem!)
– have good tyres
– take plenty of water and food (Anselmo kindly supplied us with water, but he had to draw from his personal reserve…)
– pack mosquito repellent and a long-sleeved shirt
– be ready to sweat, to fall down, to get up… in short, to have a hard time.
And… just enjoy this extraordinary adventure!
Some practical informations :
Sian Ka’an Biosphere entrance fee: 40 pesos/person
Camping at Punta Allen, Selva y Cielo: 500 pesos/tent/night
Boat trip from Punta Allen to El Playon: 300 pesos for two people (negotiated directly with the fisherman)
Tulum – Punta Allen: 53km
El Playon – Felipe Carillo Puerto: 68km